James Gillray

Ladies Dress, As it Soon Will Be

published June 20, 1796

Etching in black ink and watercolor on cream wove paper

Image: 30.5 × 21.5 cm (12 1/16 × 8 1/2 in.); Plate/sheet: 31.3 × 23.3 cm (12 3/8 × 9 3/16 in.)

Anna Maria Garthwaite

Skirt Panel for a Woman's Sack Gown

Design March 1, 1749

Silk, plain weave foundation with supplementary patterning warps and supplementary brocading wefts

114.7 × 51 cm (45 1/8 × 20 1/8 in.); Warp repeat: H.: 66.1 cm (26 in.)

Nicholas Guerin et Cie

Mise-en-Carte (Point-Paper)

1760s

Opaque watercolor with traces of graphite over an etching in black ink on cream laid paper

Image/plate: 43.5 × 54.1 cm (17 3/16 × 21 5/16 in.); Sheet: 44.8 × 56.4 cm (17 11/16 × 22 1/4 in.)

Germain Frères

Mise-en-Carte (Point-Paper)

1760s

Opaque watercolor over etching in black ink on cream laid paper

Image: 42.5 × 52.8 cm (16 3/4 × 20 13/16 in.); Plate: 44 × 53 cm (17 3/8 × 20 7/8 in.); Sheet: 45 × 55.7 cm (17 3/4 × 21 15/16 in.)

France

Woman's Spencer jacket

c. 1800

Cotton, plain weave, hand-block printed; cotton lining

Overall width with sleeves extended: W.: 151.1 cm (59 1/2 in.); Overall: H.: 30.5 cm (12 in.); Sleeve: H.: 63.5 cm (25 in.); Center back: H.: 20.3 cm (8 in.)

Oberkampf Manufactory

Printed Fabric

1780s

Linen and cotton plain weave; block printed

173.7 × 81.7 cm (68 3/8 × 32 1/8 in.); Repeat: 31.3 × 40.2 cm (12 3/8 × 15 7/8 in.)

Made in Coromandel Coast, India, probably for the Indonesian market

Man's Informal Robe

Mid-18th century

Cotton, plain weave foundation; painted and resist-dyed

109.2 × 135.6 cm (43 1/4 × 53 1/4 in.)

Made in France with cotton imported from India

Woman's Day Dress

c. 1800

Cotton, hand-spun, hand-woven plain weave called mulmul or muslin

Approximately: H.: 152.4 cm (60 in.)

Paris, France

"Costume Parisien" Fashion Plates from Journal des Dames et Des Modes and Costume Parisien (The Journal of Ladies and Fashion)

1804 and 1806

.1 Etching and engraving in black ink with watercolor on cream laid paper .2 Etching and engraving in black ink with watercolor and touches of metallic watercolor on cream wove paper

.1 172 × 93 mm (image); 182 × 111 mm (plate); 189 × 117 mm (sheet) .2 173 × 96 mm (image); 181 × 112 mm (plate); 210 × 120 mm (sheet)

Kashmir

Pallu (Shawl Border) Fragment

c. 1820

Wool, double interlocking 2:2 'S' twill tapestry weave; main warp fringe

49.3 × 129.1 cm (19 3/8 × 50 3/4 in.); Weft repeat: H.: 65 cm (25 1/2 in.)

Kashmir

Palledar (Long Shawl)

1815-25

Wool; center, twill; ends and border, double interlocking twill tapestry weave; main warp fringe

298.5 × 135.3 cm (117 1/2 × 53 1/4 in.)

Probably Norwich, England

Woman's Long Shawl

1820s

Silk, cotton, and wool, warp-float faced 3:1 'S' twill weave with supplementary patterning wefts bound in weft-float faced 1:3 'S' twill interlacings; attached side borders of 2:2, 2:2, 1:3, 2:2...'Z' composite twill weaves with supplementary patterning wefts bound in weft-float faced 1:3 'Z' twill interlacings; main warp fringe; woven on loom with Jacquard attachment

264.2 × 124.2 cm (104 × 48 7/8 in.); Center repeat: 12.7 × 14.5 cm (5 × 5 3/4 in.)

Made in India possibly for the Dutch or Latin American market

Panel of Chintz for a Woman's Skirt

1730-50

Cotton, plain weave; hand painted and dyed

363.9 × 113.7 cm (143 1/4 × 44 3/4 in.)

France

Embroidered Fabric for a Man's Waistcoat Front

1780s

Silk, plain weave; embroidered with silk thread in individual back, outline, running, satin, split and stem stitches; couching; laid work and French knots

104.5 × 55.8 cm (41 1/8 × 22 in.)

Possibly Lyon, France

Man's Waistcoat

Embroidered 1780s; altered 1795–1805

Front: Silk, satin-weave foundation, embroidered with silk thread in satin, steam and buttonhole stitches and French knots; embroidered fabric covered buttons; silk, twill weave lining; back: linen, plain weave

66.3 × 66.7 cm (26 1/8 × 26 1/4 in.)

France, probably Lyon

Design for an Embroidered Waistcoat Pocket

1780-90

Opaque and translucent watercolor with graphite on green laid paper

25.2 × 41.9 cm (10 × 16 1/2 in.)

France, probably Lyon

Design for an Embroidered Waistcoat Pocket

1780-90

Opaque and translucent watercolor over graphite on green laid paper

22.3 × 31.2 cm (8 3/4 × 12 1/4 in.)

France, probably Lyon

Design for a Waistcoat Pocket

1770-1810

Opaque watercolor and graphite on cream laid paper

17.7 × 24 cm (6 7/8 × 9 1/2 in.)

Probably Lyon, France

Pocket Designs for Men's Embroidered Waistcoats

1770–1810

Opaque watercolor and graphite with pen and brown ink on cream laid paper

17.5 × 18.3 cm (6 7/8 × 7 1/4 in.)

Manchu

Velvet Fabric for a Woman's Ao or Magua (Short Coat), Shoes, and Accessories

Qing dynasty (1644–1911), about 1890

Silk, warp-float faced 3:1 'Z' twill weave with supplementary pile warps forming cut and uncut solid velvet

448.9 × 67.2 cm (176 3/4 × 26 1/2 in.)

Made in Iran or Poland for the Polish market

Man's Waist Sash

18th century

Silk compound weave, with applied silk and metal fringe

452.2 × 68.8 cm (178 3/8 × 27 1/8 in.)

Manchu

Woman's Semiformal Domestic Magua (Short Coat)

Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 1880–1900

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin damask weave; facings: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and self-patterning ground wefts; ribbons: silk, plain weave with supplementary patterning warps, one with extended ground weft loop fringe, silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, plain weave with supplementary patterning warps, and silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 5:1 satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and self-patterning ground wefts; sleeve facings: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in flat, knot, and Pekinese stitches; sleeve bands: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in satin and stem stitches; laid work and couching; trim and closures: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; lined with silk, warp-float faced 3:1 'Z' twill weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave

62.2 × 132 cm (24 1/2 × 52 in.); Repeat: 10.6 × 19.2 cm (4 1/8 × 7 1/2 in.)

India

Man's Angarkha (Outer Robe)

Late 18th or early 19th century

Cotton, plain weave; pieced

128.3 × 92.7 cm (50 1/2 × 36 1/2 in.)

Probably France

Design for a Woven, Printed, or Embroidered Skirt Border

Mid-19th century

Opaque watercolor with traces of graphite on cream wove paper

27.6 × 41 cm (10 7/8 × 16 1/8 in.)

Han-Chinese

Embroidered Trimmings for a Woman's Ao (Short Coat)

Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 1875–1900

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; ink outlines; embroidered in back, cross, eyelet, fly, knot, single satin, satin, split, and stem stitches; couching

100 × 75.7 cm (39 3/8 × 29 3/4 in.)

Made in China for the European or American market

Painted Silk

Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 1750–75

Silk, plain weave; painted

243.5 × 74.3 cm (95 7/8 × 29 1/4 in.); Warp repeat: H.: 69.5 cm (27 3/8 in.)

Palembang area, south Sumatra, Indonesia

Woman's Selendang Limar (Shoulder Cloth)

Late 19th century

Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, weft resist dyed (weft ikat), plain weave with supplementary patterning wefts; embroidered with silk in satin, single satin, and stem stitches; embellished with gold spangles

208 × 90 cm (81 7/8 × 35 3/8 in.)

Antony Berrus

Woman's Long Shawl

1870s

Wool and cotton, warp threads dyed in multiple colors prior to weaving; center of warp-float faced 1:2 'Z' twill weave; patterned areas of two layers, plain weave and plain weave with seven-color complementary wefts, floats trimmed on reverse; knotted main warp fringe; woven on loom with Jacquard attachment; two selvages present

359.4 × 158.8 cm (141 1/2 × 62 1/2 in.)

Probably Kashmir for the Persian market (present-day Iran)

Kani Jamawar (Fabric for a Jama Coat or Shawl)

1825–75

Wool, pieced double interlocking 2:2 'S' twill tapestry weave

301.3 × 132.7 cm (118 5/8 × 52 1/4 in.); Repeat: 26.1 × 11.4 cm (10 1/4 × 4 1/2 in.)

Japan

Woman's Aigi (Inner Robe)

Edo period (1789–1868), late 1700s

Silk, satin damask weave; tye dyed; lining: silk, plain weave

Saltillo, Coahuila, Mexico

Man's Sarape (Wearing Blanket)

1800–50

Cotton and wool, slit and single dovetail tapestry weave; edged with cotton, knotted fringe

Overall, with fringe: 232.4 × 111.1 cm (91 1/2 × 43 3/4 in.); Overall, without fringe: 197.5 × 111.1 cm (77 3/4 × 43 3/4 in.)

India

Woman's Sari

Late 19th century

Silk and gilt-metal-wrapped thread, plain weave with supplementary pattern wefts

307.4 × 97.2 cm (121 × 38 1/4 in.)

Navajo (Diné)

Wearing Blanket (Phase II)

1850-65

Wool; single interlocking tapestry weave; twined edges

146 × 173.5 cm (57 1/2 × 68 1/4 in.)

Navajo (Diné)

Wearing Blanket

1860-90

Wool, plain weave with "lazy lines" and dovetail tapestry weave; twined warp ends and selvages; knotted corner tassels

177.8 × 125.4 cm (70 × 49 3/8 in.)

France

Design for a Woven Dress Border

Early 19th century

Opaque watercolor and pen and brown ink and graphite on cream laid paper

27.7 × 41 cm (11 7/8 × 16 1/8 in.)

Probably France

Design for a Woven, Printed, or Embroidered Dress or Skirt Border

First half of the 19th century

Opaque and translucent watercolor over graphite on cream and green laid paper, pieced

25.2 × 36.6 cm (9 7/8 × 14 3/8 in.)

India

Shawl Fragment

1870s

Wool, embroidery on twill weave foundation

41.2 × 26.7 cm (16 1/4 × 10 1/2 in.)

Probably France

Fragment of a Woman's Skirt Flounce

c. 1850

Silk, warp-faced pattern woven to shape, on plain weave foundation

50.2 × 54 cm (19 3/4 × 21 1/4 in.)